A few months ago Will of Barrister & Mann started a
thread about what do members prefer in their aftershave splashes, alcohol or no alcohol. I wrote back that I prefer no alcohol. Before we get into what happened next, let me just give some background.
I have fairly sensitive skin, mainly rosacea on my cheeks and it can get pretty dry around my mouth during winter time. I've always liked splashes for their ease of use (splash and go!) and my favorites are alcohol-based ones like Krampert's Finest where the alcohol's sting and drying effects are lessened (Proraso is just deadly, causing my face to turn beet red). But on the whole, I generally use balms and thicker ones at that. My "desert island" balm is Pre de Provence Aftershave Balm, which is thick. But during summer time it'd be nice to use something lighter. I've used Lucky Tiger After Shave Tonic & Face Lotion which advertises itself as no-alcohol (more in a minute) but my face still gets dry.
Background out of the way and back to the story. After I answered Will's thread, he generously offered to send me a sample of his Kyovu Alcohol-Free Aftershave Splash (so we'll get the "legal disclaimer" language out of the way, I didn't buy it and I have no affiliation in any way, blah, blah, blah). Because we are both in the Boston area, we agreed to meet up.
It was fascinating talking with Will about all sorts of things, from how he got into soap-making(his family ran a bakery so he grew up in an environment of scents and baking/cooking/alchemy), to the development of online traditional shaving forums, to even his conversations with other artisans (nothing earth-shattering; I just love hearing about people producing goods through hard work and dedication). He told me some of his philosophies, including being transparent with Barrister & Mann (for instance he lists all of his ingredients, including breaking down the "scenting" ingredients, and not just general "fragrance" or "parfum", as he wants no one with say an allergy to a particular essential oil to be under an misapprehensions). He even told me about how even splashes billed as no-alcohol, like the aforementioned Lucky Tiger, can use alcohol as emulsifiers.
I agreed to use his Kyovu Alcohol-Free Aftershave Splash for a while and offer my thoughts. I hesitate to call this a review since Will told me he still might be tinkering with his formula. However, I have to say, its great! First, the appearances: it looks like lemon juice, very lightly yellow-colored and not viscous.
Since there is no menthol or alcohol, there is no sting or "cooling effect" nor is it an antihemorrhagic. However, it is calming and, with ingredients like aloe and witch hazel, it is antiseptic as well. it feels very good on my skin afterward. It goes on like a splash would, coats my face evenly, and absorbs as quickly as any splash should.
It doesn't leave my face tacky afterward, but does leave it feeling fresh and supple. Usually after a splash, I will use a facial moisturizer, but I don't feel the need to with this one. And, most importantly, it doesn't leave my skin "angry" or causes my rosacea to flare up.
I'm not very good with scents, but here is the description from B&M's site: "a blend of lemon, bergamot, lavender, rosemary, oakmoss, and patchouli." I definitely get the lemon first and foremost, which I like a lot; I generally prefer "brighter" and "cleaner" scents. I also pick up the bergamot, but before this starts to sound like a morning cup of tea, the other scents serve to weigh down the splash and give it an earthiness that keep it from smelling like Lemon Pledge. Personally I would prefer a lighter and airier scent profile, but I also see the potential pitfalls with trying for lighter and airier and ending up with "kitchen counter cleaner" scents. Will's layering of scents definitely has purpose and serves a purpose.
Ingredients: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hammamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Water, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Water, Juniperus Communis (Juniper) Flower Water, Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Nereocystis Leutkneana (Bull Kelp) Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Lactobacillus/Chenopodium Quinoa (Quinoa) Ferment Extract Filtrate, Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract, Allantoin, Caprylyl/Capryl Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides, Aqua, Fusel Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Citrus bergamia (Bergamot) Oil, Citrus limonium (Lemon) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) Oil, Fragrance, Pogostemon cablin (Patchouli) Oil, Benzoic Acid